The Border, Zambia

Thursday, April 2, 2009
Zimbabwe/Zambia Border Control (Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe)
Day

The country of Zimbabwe has been in different stages of turmoil for
decades now. It's hard to judge what stage at what time when you are
trying to assess and make plans. There is no consistency, no regulated
law, no structure or an infrastructure that is not corrupt.

During my previous trip in 2007 I had a significantly hard time making
my way through the customs officials. I had a tremendously challenging
time making my way on the roads through the police road blocks, often
getting threatened with arrest and being forced to bribe. So naturally
when we made plans to bring a very expensive camera into the country
we tried to find the least confrontational means to do this. The
options were presented to us, and we chose to have Patrick (with
camera) fly into Livingstone, Zambia, and then cross the border at the
touristy Victoria Falls.

Andrew and I quickly realize that we are unable to cross the border to
Zambia to pick Patrick up unless we pay an $80 Visa for Zambia, and
then another $35 Visa when we re-enter Zimbabwe. Seeing that we have
to save our money for car rental and food and books and other support
for the Zimbabweans, we had to figure out another plan. Through a
friend of Denis we were able to have a Zambian man pick up Patrick and
then drive him the 10 k's to the border post.

Andrew and I wait on the Zimbabwean side of the border. The border
just feels like a place of corrupt and surreptitious activity. It
feels as if people are not what they say they are. The sun is hot
today, adding to the uneasy feeling at the border. People are "moving
and shaking" at the border. Trying to cut deals and trade money for
opportunities. Trying to find a way to get through faster. All of the
officials feel untrustworthy, as many officials are here in Zimbabwe.
Men try to sell fake Zimbabwean dollars to me. Men try to sell copper
bracelets on their wrists. Men continue to follow us talking to us,
trying to convince us of something. The border is a fast moving place.
And Andrew and I are right in the middle of it, equally as furtive,
trying to find a way to cross in the "no man's land" section so that
we can try and see Patrick, trying to find a way to do this without
having to declare anything or give up our passports.

Through various ways, through pure luck, we find Patrick in the tumult
and we make it across the border with all of our equipment and zero
jail time. The border is an interesting place.